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| The Narrow Gauge Steam Railways of Wales | ||
| by Erik Ledbetter | ||
| During the nineteenth century, a network of of tiny narrow-gauge railways impressed themselves deeply into the lives of the Welsh people. Built to haul slate, timber and other resources from Wales' forbidding mountains down to the seacoast ports, the little trains opened the interior of Wales to the industrial revolution, and ushered in an era of profound change in rural Welsh life. | ||
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| For nearly a century the little trains thrived. Yet in the 1930s, the Great Depression began to erode the narrow-gauge lines' financial viability. Staggered by the Depression, the trains sustained a further blow with the collapse of the Welsh slate trade in the 1940s. The end of slate mining spelled doom for the tiny railways, for the heavy stone had in many cases been the lines' most profitable commodity. Happily, it was not to be. Over the years the tiny trains had won many admirers, and now those friends rallied to save them. Beginning with the takeover of the Talyllyn Railway by an enthusiasts' group in 1951, several of the most beloved lines passed into the hands of volunteer preservationists. Clearing brush, restoring and repainting rolling stock, and repairing lineside structures, these hardy souls pioneered the field of operating railway preservation. | ||
Travel Tips On Line Resources Photo Locations Non-Rail Tips Personal Recommendations | ||
| The Trains | ||
| Today the Talyllyn is joined in preservation by the Ffestiniog, the Vale of Rheidol, the Welsh Highland, the Welshpool and Llanfair. Together, they represent the greatest concentration of preserved 2'-gauge steam railroads in the world. Adding spice to the mix is the Snowdon Mountain Railway, an 800mm-gauge rack railroad which offers a taste of Switzerland in Wales. | ||
| The lines we will discuss are: | ||
| Talyllyn Railway: located at the seaside community of Tywyn in central Wales, the Talyllyn was built in 1865 to ferry slate from a quarry located at a mountainside site called Bryn Eglwys ("The Church on the Hill") above the Nant Gwernol in the Merioneth mountains. Surveying and grading both went swiftly, and the seven-mile line laid to a gauge of 2'3" was nearly complete before the railway even received its Parliamentary charter. In July 1865 the necessary legal charters were obtained, and the line opened for regular business in 1866. On its opening day, the Talyllyn became the first narrow-gauge railway in the world engineered from the beginning for steam working. For 65 years the Talyllyn carried slate from the quarry to a transfer platform adjacent to the standard-gauge Cambrian Railways at Tywyn (or more specifically, at an outlying spot called "Wharf" in the Talyllyn's timetables). During those years the railway also became an integral part of the lives of the valley and mountain people nearby, for its tiny but well-built passenger cars offered a regular service connecting the inland mining community of Abergynolwyn with the stores and emporia of Tywyn. Decline in demand as synthetic materials replaced slate for British roofing shingles spelled the end for the quarry at Bryn Eglwys. The last stones were removed in 1946, and the railroad ceased all freight operations later that same year. Yet the line never quite closed. Sir Henry Haydn Jones, the last owner of both the quarry and the railway, had developed an affection for the little trains, and he persisted in running a seasonal passenger service long after freight working had been abandoned. This happy situation came to an abrupt end with Sir Henry's death in 1950. The executors had no intention of allowing an obsolete railway to drain the estate's coffers: closure and a rapid liquidation seemed inevitable. Yet in its latter years, the Talyllyn had won many friends. Now, some of them now rallied to save it. Under the energetic leadership of Mr. L.T.C. "Tom" Rolt, a band of dedicated enthusiasts organized the Talyllyn Preservation Society, and set about convincing the executors that railway had a future as a tourist line operated by volunteers. With the encouragement of Sir Henry's widow, the estate consented to a one-year trial of the idea. A successful 1951 season led to a continuation of the arrangement, and ultimately to a long-term partnership. The Talyllyn thus became the world's first successful operating steam railway preservation scheme. Today the Talyllyn Railway still runs under its original parliamentary charter, with the Talyllyn Railway Preservation Society and the Jones estate sharing control of the operating corporation. The line's two original locomotives, 0-4-2T Talyllyn and 0-4-0T Dolgoch, are still in service; they are supplemented now by four other similar engines, including the 0-4-2T "Tom Rolt," built in the railway's own shops. The line also retains its complete original 1865 fleet of three two-axle passenger cars and a brake van, which still run as a "Victorian train" on specially advertised services. Regular stock includes four-axle wooden bogie compartment coaches built to match the general lines of their smaller predecessors. | ||
| Ffestiniog Railway: Also located on the Bay of Cardigan, this line connecting the port town of Porthmadog with the slate-mining community of Blaenau Ffestiniog offers the longest mainline and the most active schedule of any of the Welsh narrow-gauge roads; indeed, it's commonly regarded as the queen of preserved Welsh steam. Completed in 1836, the Ffestiniog began life as horse-drawn 1'11.5"-gauge mineral railway. In 1863, the FR introduced its first steam locomotive. Steam traction revolutionized the economics of the line, and caught the eye of the master Victorian engineer, promoter, gadfly, and narrow-gauge railway advocate Robert Fairlie. Soon Fairlie was promoting the little Welsh railway throughout the world as the new, cost-efficient railway of the future. Delegations from as far away as Russia and the United States all came to Porthmadog, and were escorted by Fairlie and the FR management through the shops and up the line to Blaenau Ffestiniog. Fairlie's indomitable spirit and advocacy persuaded many of them to launch similar projects. The result was "narrow-gauge fever"-- the boom in light-railway construction which swept around the world during the 1870s and 1880s. The spiritual antecedents of the great narrow-gauge lines in the U.S.—the Silverton Train, the Cumbres and Toltec, the East Broad Top—can be found along the Ffestiniog's rails. Indeed, William Jackson Palmer himself was an early visitor, and his FR experience directly influenced his decision to select a 3' gauge for the D&RG. | ||
| Welsh Highland Railway: The Welsh Highland Railway was the last of the great Welsh narrow-gauge lines to be completed, the final spike being driven only in 1923. Its 25-mile route from Porthmadog to Dinas Junction near Caernarfon traversed western Snowdonia, some of the most spectacular scenery in Wales. Even so the line was a commercial failure, finally closing in 1937 after a mere fourteen years' corporate existence. Now, sixty years after the last wheel turned, the Welsh Highland is rising from the ashes. A group led by the Ffestiniog is relaying and revitalizing the entire railway. An initial section of the line from downtown Caernarfon to Dinas Junction is already in operation.(Ironically enough, this section is laid on a former standard-gauge right of way-the historical WHR never made it all the way into Caernarfon. The new terminal gives the WHR departures a photogenic quality, as the trains now pull begin their journeys from beneath the walls of medieval Caernarfon Castle.) Ministerial approval has been received to begin relaying the historic line, and work is now proceeding south from Dinas. Trains on the WHR-Caernarfon are powered by a pair of very impressive 2' gauge 2-6-2+2-6-2 Beyer-Garratts, built in 1958 for the South African Railways Port Shepstone - Harding branch. (The line was later privatised under its pre-Nationalization name as the Alfred County Railway.) While no locomotives of anything like this size operated on the original WHR, the powerful articulateds nevertheless make a welcome addition to the Welsh narrow-gauge scene, and the "authentic" engines and stock of the Ffestiniog will have access to the new line; in fact, Ffestiniog's "Blanche" has been the regular power for much of this year. In addition to the new WHR-Caernarfon, since 1964 the memory and equipment of the historic WHR have been kept alive by the Welsh Highland Railway Ltd. of Porthmadog. Their preservation site at Gelert's Farm in Porthmadog is home to the Hunslet 2-6-2T "Russell," the last original WHR engine, as well as an impressive collection of other preserved WHR stock and memorabilia. Today the Porthmadog group is more active than ever, operating a 3/4-mile demonstration railway of their own, and cooperating with the Ffestiniog-led project to relay the entire WHR. You'll find their Porthmadog facility near the Central Trains standard-gauge depot, on the opposite side of town from the FR's Harbor Station. | ||
| Vale of Rheidol: Like the Talyllyn and the Ffestiniog, this line also starts beside the Bay of Cardigan, in this case from the distinguished university town of Aberystwyth. A relative latecomer, the 1' 11 3/4"-gauge VoR was completed in 1902 to serve lead mines, logging operations, and quarries in the mountains flanking the Rheidol river. Unfortunately, the lead mines which were the VoR's main support played out early, forcing the railway into an accelerated dependence on tourists rather than freight for its livelihood. In 1913 the railway was merged into its larger standard-gauge neighbor, the Cambrian Railways, and then in 1923 the Cambrian itself was folded into the mighty Great Western Railway system. The GWR essentially rebuilt the railway, scrapping two of the original locomotives, rebuilding the third, and constructing two new engines at their Swindon works to round out the roster. This trio of elegant Swindon-built or Swindon-rebuilt 2-6-2Ts, Nos 7, 8, and 9, are the line's primary power to this day. Concurrently with the new engines, Swindon also constructed a fleet of new closed and open carriages to help the VoR cater to the tourist trade. These too serve to the present day. In 1948 the VoR was nationalized and folded into British Rail along with its parent, the much-loved GWR. Surviving repeated attempts to kill off or abandon it, the VoR struggled on to become British Rail's last steam-powered branch. In 1989 the British Government finally privatized the railway in a controversial sale, which saw South Wales excursion operator Brecon Mountain Railway beat out a committee of local VoR workers and preservationists for the right to run the property. Under Brecon Mountain management, trains now run either once or twice a day from April to October on the 11.75-mile journey to Devil's Bridge. Engines and rolling stock have been restored to their 1920s Great Western livery, and the entire operation offers an uncanny simulation of a classic Great Western branchline of the interwar years. | ||
| Welshpool & Llanfair: Alone among the preserved narrow gauge lines of Wales, the W&L is not a mountain railroad. Rather, it was built in 1903 to provide the farming community of Welshpool with access to the standard-gauge railhead at Llanfair Caereinion. The line passes through gently rolling pastureland and farmland near the English border town of Shrewsbury. Don't be deceived by the scenery, however: to save money on grading and cutting, the line follows the contours of the land, resulting in some of the stiffest adhesion-worked grades in Britain (maximum 4%). Like the VoR, the W&L passed into the hands of the Cambrian and the the GWR. It too was nationalized in 1948, but here British Rail was not so tolerant: the line was abandoned and taken up in 1956. Preservationists began reopening the railway in stages in 1963. | ||
| Snowdon Mountain Railway: While technically a narrow gauge steam railway like the others, the SMR is really something quite different: a genuine Swiss rack railway transported lock, stock and barrel to Wales. Created in 1896, the line hauls tourists from the shores of Llanberis Lake to the summit of Snowdon, at 3,560 feet the highest mountain in Wales. The 800mm-gauge rack and pinion track is built according to the patented Abt system, and four of the surviving 1896 SLM-Winterthur 0-4-2T rack engines are still on the property, along with three later British-built superheated counterparts. Unfortunately, a search for operating economies has led the line to place more and more workings in the hands of diesels. Four Hunslet-built diesel-hydraulics as well as a three diesel-electric MU railcars are on the property, and nearly all early and late-season workings are now held down by the diesels. In the prime season, however, steam will be pressed into service on several departures a day, and the odds of catching any given form of motive power on any given train are dictated by the luck of the draw. Operating season lasts from April to October, but be advised that early and late season trains may not run to the summit or may be cancelled entirely due to weather conditions atop the mountain. | ||
| Download an information packet including this page's text. | ||
| Travel Tips | ||
| When To Go: Wales is a major tourist destination for British vacationers, and in the high summer months can get a little overrun, much like a U.S. seacoast resort area. Late spring and early fall are both excellent times to visit, as the tourist season is at less of a peak, but the railways are still running full schedules. Nearly all the lines shut down entirely during November-March for maintenance. | ||
| The Language: Despite what you may think, not everyone in the United Kingdom speaks English as their native tongue. Wales is a Celtic nation, and the original language of the country is Welsh, a tongue related to Irish, Gaelic and Cornish. By the 1960s native Welsh speakers had become rare, though the northwest of the country where many of the preserved lines are located was a bastion of surviving Welsh language and culture. Today the Welsh language is undergoing a slow renaissance, and can be commonly heard on the street in places like Caernarfon as well as on a special "BBC Cymru" radio station. Rest assured, however, everyone speaks English as well, albeit sometimes with an accent which is a bit rough on untutored American ears. | ||
| The Weather: Moderate. However, be advised that Wales enjoys some of the heaviest annual rainfall totals in Britain (the locals call it "liquid sunshine"), and light raingear is a must at any season. | ||
| Maps: The superb British Ordinance Survey maps are available for the areas covering all the preserved railway lines. These beautiful maps also include footpaths and public rights-of-way, excellent for a hiking as well as a train-riding holiday. Particularly useful are Outdoor Leasure #23, Snowdonia-Cadair Idris; Landranger 124, Dolgellau; and Landranger 115, Snowdon. These maps are for sale at stationers, bookstores, tourist stores and railways throughout Wales. | ||
| Getting There: You're most likely to fly into London. From metropolitan London, the M4 Motorway (like an Interstate) heads directly to South Wales; from there you can work your way north into preserved railroad territory in mid- and North Wales. Alternatively, you can drive north in England to Birmingham and Shrewsbury, and then cut west into Wales. You can visit many of the preserved railways in Wales by British Rail. Reasonable services are available to the W&L, VoR, Talyllyn and FR via Central Trains' Cambrian Coast Line from Shrewsbury, while the FR can also be reached via the North Wales services through Conwy. (Both trips are approximately five hours one way from London.) However, be advised that schedules, while still good by American standards, are not quite frequent enough to offer convenient and reliable day-trip connections for all the preserved steam trains. A car is a great aid to creating a logical and unhurried itinerary. | ||
| Lodging: As a resort area, most of Wales is well equipped with small inns and Bed and Breakfasts. Any good British B&B guide from an American bookstore will offer a wealth of options. Advance reservations are highly recommended, however, in the high tourist season. | ||
| Food: Restaurants and pubs are plentiful in the towns. A little Indian and Continental quisine is available here and there. Most common, however, is good hearty rural British food. | ||
| Money & Prices: Forget the traveler's checks or large wads of cash. BY FAR the safest, simplest and least expensive way to get cash overseas is your plain old ATM card. You'll find ATMs everywhere, even in the smallest Welsh towns, and they'll all take your Cirrus card. | ||
| Timetables: British timetables use the 24-hour system. 12.00 is noon, 13.00 1 PM, 14.00 2 PM, etc. Midnight is 0.00. Dates written in digits have the format DD.MM.Year. | ||
| Online Resources | ||
| Use the following links to plan your trip to the Welsh Narrow Gauge lines: | ||
| http://www.mindspring.com/~eledbett/wales/index.htm - Trainspotting in Wales - My own website narrating a two-week vacation riding the narrow-gauge railways of Wales. Visit and ride the TR, FR, VoR, and SMR in text and pictures. | ||
| http://www.steamcentral.com/trav-uks.htm - SteamCentral - the companion piece to this Travel Resource pages is John Craft's look at standard gauge steam on the main line and preserved railways in the UK. | ||
| http://www.talyllyn.co.uk/ - The Talyllyn Railway - The invaluable official site, including news of the line, a history, equipment specifications, and a virtual tour of the route. Richard Huss, curator. | ||
| Ffestiniog Railway. The official site of the Queen of the Narrow Gauge, including timetables, events listings, a map of the line, and detailed descriptions of the engines and historic rolling stock. | ||
| http://www.sionix.demon.co.uk/penrhyn1.htm - Steam at Penrhyn Slate Quarry - R.G. Roscoe's fascinating pages showcase FR engines "Linda" and "Blanche" during their final working year at the Penrhyn Slate Quarries near Bangor. His elegant black-and-white images offer a priceless glimpse of these archetypal Welsh quarry engines during their working lives. | ||
| http://www.bangor.ac.uk/ml/whr/whr.htm - Welsh Highland Railway Project/Project Rheilfordd Eryri - Discover this epic of preservation-- and catch a glimpse of the line's fascinating South African Garratt locomotives-- in Ben Fisher's excellent pages. | ||
| http://www.whr.co.uk/WHR/WHR.html - Welsh Highland Railway Ltd./Rheilffordd Ucheldi Cymru. - Since 1964 the memory and equipment of the historic WHR have been kept alive by the Welsh Highland Railway Ltd. of Porthmadog. This official website offers an superlative history of the railway in text and historic photographs, as well as schedules of operations at the Porthmadog preservation site and news of the WHR Ltd. society. Richard Beton, curator. | ||
| http://www.apricot.co.uk/hosts/corris/corris.htm - Corris Railway Society - The Corris Railway between Corris and Machynlleth was a near-twin of the Talyllyn: the lines shared the same "broad" 2' 3" gauge, as well a common dependence on slate as their lifeblood. Now a scrappy band of preservationists is revitalizing this abandoned railway as well. | ||
| http://www.whr.co.uk/WHR/gltw.html - The Great Little Trains of Wales - Several of the Welsh narrow gauge lines have formed a consolidated marketing and ticketing alliance, the Great Little Trains of Wales. Richard Beton hosts this useful little site which offers practical information on the member lines, including directions, contact information and timetables. | ||
| http://www.snowdonrailway.force9.co.uk/ - Snowdon Mountain Railway. - The official site of the Snowdon Mountain route, offering timetables, directions, and a short introduction to the line's locomotives and rolling stock. See also the SMR entry in Mark Dewell's UK Heritage Railways pages. | ||
| http://www.totalweb.co.uk/dweb/nwales/index.htm - The North Wales Coast Line - British fan Charlie Hulme's valentine to his favorite Welsh standard-gauge line, the former LNWR North Wales Coast Line. A well-written site filled with intriguing observations about standard-gauge railroading in Wales in the current era of transition. | ||
| http://www.data-wales.co.uk/ - Data-Wales - Though the railways are reason enough to go, Wales offers much, much more. For a broader look into the language, culture, heritage, and ecology of this lovely land, visit Data-Wales, an Internet resource on Welsh culture and history. The good people at Data-Wales take special interest in encouraging first-time visitors, and offer a great deal in the way of useful maps and guidance. | ||
| http://homepages.uel.ac.uk/1278/rly-pres/info.html - UK Heritage Railways - In cooperation with the Heritage Railway Association, Mark Dewell maintains this essential clearinghouse for news, information and events in and around preserved railroading throughout the United Kingdom, be it steam or diesel, standard or narrow gauge. Includes a vast library of links to further reading. | ||
| http://mercurio.iet.unipi.it/home.html - The European Railway Server - Be careful here-- you might get lost in this vast and sprawling thicket of links, images and information on European railroading today. Marco van Uden has created one of the world's premier railway sites, offering vast link libraries, comprehensive stock lists, motive power image libraries, and other goodies. An essential stop for anyone planning a railway holiday to Europe. | ||
| http://www.thistlehotels.com - Thistle Hotels - quality accomodations throughout England. | ||
| http://www.guestaccom.co.uk/ - GuestAccom - a listing of Bed and Breakfast accomodations. | ||
| http://www.ordsvy.gov.uk/ - Ordnance Survey - the full range of OS maps available online. | ||
| http://www.mapsworldwide.com/ - MapsWorldwide - the full range of OS maps available online here, and many other British and European maps available. | ||
| http://www.mapquest.com - MapQuest - order maps online. | ||
| http://www.omnimap.com - Omnimap - order maps online. | ||
| http://www.xe.net/currency - Universal Currency Convertor - self-explanatory. | ||
| http://www.mastercard.com/cgi-bin/atm/ - MasterCard ATM Locator - Find ATMs wherever you're going. | ||
| (Links are provided as a convenience and do not imply any endorsement of products or services offered on the linked sites.) | ||
| Photo Locations | ||
| Talyllyn: the A493 secondary road parallels the line, and turnoffs offer several photo locations. | ||
| | Talyllyn 0-4-2T 7 "Tom Rolt" high in the Merionethshire Mountains at Nant Gwernol. | |
 | Driver John Robinson and fireman Chris Abbot prepare #7 for another run at Wharf station. | |
 | Working hard up the stiff grade on the "mineral extension" between Abergynolwyn and Nant Gwernol. | |
 | Talyllyn driver John Robinson poses on the footplate. | |
| Vale of Rheidol: this line is a particular treat for Great Western Railway fans, as it preserves much of the atmosphere of a light-duty GWR branch of the 1920s. The Aberystwyth-Devil's Bridge road roughly parallels the line, with side roads offering several crossing points. Mountain segments of the line are accessible only by rail. | ||
 | At the Aberystwyth depot, we see VoR #8 running around its train in the narrow-gauge passing loop. | |
 | No. 8's driver awaits a highball out of Aberystwyth. | |
 | No. 8's impeccably clean firing deck, showing off her Swindon-designed backhead. | |
 | Pulling forward from the water tank into the deep cut at Devil's Bridge. | |
| Ffestiniog Railway: Quite Simply the Queen of the Narrow Gauge. The frequent service offers the chance to both ride and chase in the same day. Departing from Porthmadog, you can take a long layover in the fascinating slate-mining town of Blaenau Ffestiniog, a time-capsule of the industrial revolution in Britain, capturing both the boldness and the grinding exploitation of the era. | ||
 | Engine "Linda", an 1896 outside-frame Hunslet 0-4-0T converted to a 2-4-0T+T, prepares to head out a morning train to Blaenau from Porthmadog's Harbor Station. | |
 | "Linda" at Blaenau, watering against the background of the tall slate mountains. The slopes ringing the town are deeply scarred with abandoned inclined plane railways, pitheads and tailings piles. | |
 | Double Fairlie "Earl of Merioneth" heads a down train near Tan-y-Bwlch. | |
| Snowdon Mountain Railway: Switzerland in Wales | ||
 | SMR steam engines #3, "Wyddfa", and #6, "Padarn", simmer outside the Llanberis terminal. | |
 | "Wyddfa", one of the original Swiss-built 0-4-2Ts, at the watering racks in the Llanberis yards. | |
| Non-Rail Tips | ||
| Wales is a stark and lovely land, rich in heritage and scenery. The historical highlight of the Welsh landscape is the fantastic castles, many built by English King Edward II in the 1200s as part of his successful campaign to reduce the Welsh to allegiance to England. Information about the castles and walled towns of Wales is available on the excellent Castles of Wales web site. Wales offers a wide range of nature walks and hiking trails, excellent for an outdoor vacation. The scenery is rich, green, lonely and wild—lovely. If your only experience of Britain is England and the London area, I think you'll be quite surprised by how rural and isolated much of Wales is, especially in the northern highlands. | ||
| Personal Recommendations | ||
| Like John, I don't often travel alone—usually I'm with non-railfan friends. I'm not willing to suffer to conserve money, so I'm not looking for the cheapest hotel or restaurant. Nor do I seek out American touchstones like McDonalds and Holiday Inn. Finally, I enjoy a little hiking and history tourism once the steam mileage is in the bag. | ||
| Cars: See above under travel. | ||
| Talyllyn and Ffestiniog: Tywyn is an interesting seaside resort town, and a good base for exploring the Cadair Idris region. Barmouth is tacky, touristy, and best avoided. Porthmadog itself is a charming and attractive old port town. Don't miss nearby Harlech Castle, and a drive out the Llyn peninsula will give you a taste of the real rural Wales. The Neolithic village of Tre'r Ceiri is a must-see: ask for directions in Caernarfon. | ||
| VoR-Aberystwyth: in a land of towns, Aberystwyth passes for a city. Home to the Library of Wales, it offers a fine seaside promenade and an interesting funicular railway, but it's a bit bustling compared to the more charming small towns and villages. | ||
| Caernarfon: Do not miss this fascinating medieval walled town, a hotbed of genuine Welsh culture and national feeling with a history dating back to Roman times. | ||
| Food: Breakfast is typically at the hotel, included in the price of your room. Be aware that toast is served cold and dry, and "bacon" means a kind of Canadian fried ham, not the crispy stuff Americans are used to. Lunch is usually a sandwich or a pub meal: good hearty food. Dinner ranges all over the map. from uninspired British cooking to truly fine French provencal and Indian ethnic food. If you find yourself near Dolgellau, seek out Dylan's: it's worth it. | ||
| Trip Strategy: Plan to devote a half-day to each line if you only want to ride, and a full day to each line you choose to chase or photograph as well. You can ride each line in half a day, but the railways are so fascinating that they reward a longer visit. Riding and chasing can be difficult to do at the same visit: the FR has frequent departures, but many of the lines are only 1- or 2-train a day affairs, especially early in the season. | ||
| Enjoy Your Trip! Add your comments to this page | ||
| Download an information packet including this page's text. | ||
| Erik Ledbetter is a regular volunteer at the Walkersville Southern Railroad, and a staff member at Railway Preservation News. He lives in the Washington - Baltimore metroplex. View Erik's "Steam Safari" web site here. | ||
| YOU ARE BROWSING THE OLD STEAMCENTRAL.COM. TO SEE OUR LATEST ENTRIES, CLICK HERE. | ||