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The Narrow Gauge Steam Railways of Saxony
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by John Craft and Thomas Kreitmair  
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At the time of German Reunification in 1990, there were still eight narrow gauge railways in the former East powered by steam. Five of these lines were located in Saxony, the remnants of the extensive narrow gauge lines of the Saxon State Railways. |
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Four of these lines still offer daily service behind steam. The fifth was dieselized in 1993, but still operates steam on its scheduled passenger service on the last Sunday of each month. |
Travel Tips On Line Resources Photo Locations Non-Rail Tips Personal Recommendations |
Download an information packet including this page's text and timetables for German Narrow Gauge lines |
The Trains |
In the 1880s, the Saxon State Railways began a railway-building program that continued right up to the beginning of WWI. Main lines were built to standard gauge, supplmemented by a network of feeder lines constructed to 750mm gauge. By the turn of the Century, the narrow gauge network had grown to some 500km. The "Königlich-Sächsische Staatseisenbahn" (Royal Saxon State RR) was the only German state-endorsed railroad that fully engaged in a planned program of building narrow gauge lines. Economic reality kept these lines open through WWII, and they quickly became a part of the postwar Communist planned economy. In the 1950s a major modernization program produced narrow gauge railways with brand-new steam power and coaching stock, fully interlocked station layouts, and servicing facilities. Due to increased road traffic, availability of buses and rising inefficiency, most of the narrow gauge lines were closed in the 60's and 70's. The lines in operation today are the last remnants of Saxony's large narrow gauge network.
After Reunification, Deutsche Reischsbahn (DR, in the former East) and Deutsche Bundesbahn (DB, in the former West) began preparing for consolidation. High on the priority list was getting rid of the narrow gauge steam lines. Three lines were quickly privatized - The Harz Mountain Railway, and two lines in Mecklenburg-Pomerania. The other lines, all found within Saxony, remained a part of DB until 1996, when their ownership was transferred to the Land of Saxony.
Saxony was reluctant to close these routes. While they weren't efficient providers of service (a small fleet of buses could offer the same service at much lower cost, and most lines in fact run alongside bus routes for at least part of their journey), they did provide hundreds of jobs in a depressed economy. The government of Saxony contracted with DB to continue operating the lines until they could be privatized. In most cases consists were shortened and some service cutbacks made, but the trains continued to run.
On January 1, 1997, the first Saxon line was privatized, and another followed in 1998. Saxony has invested heavily in the remaining two lines to make them attractive to prospective buyers. With tourism becoming a big part of the economy in these scenic areas, the character of the lines is changing, but their future seems relatively safe. (Pre-dawn trains are no longer filled with factory workers - it's lunch trains with tourists that keep these lines open today.)
Until Reunification in 1991, freight traffic played an important role on several of these lines. Standard-gauge freight cars were placed on "Rollwagen" (special flatcars with standard gauge rails) which permit these cars to be carried on narrow gauge rails. (Carrying standard cars on Rollwagen was widely used in several European countries to carry freight on narrow gauge that had to be interchanged with standard gauge, and the practice continues on the Sroda-Zaniemysl line in Poland.)
Which brings us to the famous "Meyer." Think of it as a Shay with rods instead of gears. These attractive tank engines are saturated compounds, and feature a pair of pivoting 0-4-0T engine sets instead of the usual articulated construction of one fixed and one pivoting engine. An extremely successful design constructed by Hartmann between 1896 and 1921, they were used daily on the line Oschatz - Mugeln - Kemmlitz right up to the privatization of the line in 1994.
But unless you plan to visit for specials, you're likely to see only the standard 2-10-2T in all its glory. Many of these locomotives were built during the early 1950s modernization, but the basic design (and some locos still operating today) dates from the 1920s. (They can be distinguished quite easily: the original versions have a feedwater heater mounted atop the smokebox), while the 1950's- built engines lack this appliance.) |
| The lines we will discuss are: |
Zittau - Bertsdorf - Kurort Oybin, Kurort Jonsdorf: found in the most remote corner of Germany, surrounded by Poland and the Czech Republic. It was constructed in 1890, and operates 16.1km of trackage from a standard gauge connection at Zittau. The line splits at Bertsdorf and runs to two resorts - Kurort Oybin (a "Kurort" is a "curing place," or spa) and Kurort Jonsdorf. For many years during Communist rule this line was threatened with closure to clear the area around the Zittau-Vorstadt station for a large strip mine. Luckily these plans fell by the wayside.
This was the first line to be privatized in Saxony, and the new owners (the "Sachsiche-Oberlausizter Eisenbahn GmbH," or "Saxony-Upper Lusatia Railway Corp.") immediately trimmed service levels while at the same time trying to appeal to enthusiasts. In 1997, when the Internet was still a minor presence in Europe, the SOEG had a robust Web site with details on its historic equipment and pricing for photographer's freight charters! In another effort to please its fans, the railroad reinstituted what had been extremely before the 1996 service cuts - trains leaving Bertsdorf for Oybin and Jonsdorf simultaneously, side-by-side out of the station platforms. (It happens five times daily now.)
Unique among the Saxon lines, the locomotives here burn oil instead of coal. The first proposal to convert to oil made by the Zittau shop foreman, Siegfried Siebenhaar, dates back to 1990. As the Zittau shop is surrounded by apartment houses, he wanted to reduce the smoke from engines awaiting their next assignment. The first engine to be converted was 099 733 which started trial runs in February 1992. Fuel is not the usual bunker C; the locomotives burn light heating oil. After some in-service trials, the succesful burner design was selected and all Zittau 2-10-2's were converted to oil in the following years.
In addition to the usual complement of 2-10-2Ts, an 0-8-0T used for many years as the yard shunter is still on site, as is a Meyer used regularly on specials. (See the schedules contained in the download for details.)
A normal service day finds six departures from Zittau, with each consist working a trip to Oybin and to Jonsdorf before returning to Zittau. One weekend per month, the Meyer is operated on a special schedule which includes carrying a "rollwagen" freight car in the consist to Oybin. |
Cranzahl - Kurort Oberwiesenthal: Also on the Czech border, this line features heavy grades and is found in a ski resort area.
Completed in 1897, this line operates from Cranzahl (where it connects to the standard gauge line running from Annaberg-Buchholz to Chomutov in the Czech Republic) 17km to the hilltop resort town of Kurort Oberwiesenthal. For a portion of its length, the line runs within 100 yards of the Czech border, marked only by small warning signs along a small stream.
Photographers flock to this line in the winter to shoot the steam trains working on steep grades in the snowy landscapes. The first train down from the hilltop shed is usually doubleheaded, and one loco is kept at the Cranzahl station to serve as protection power. It is usually returned to Oberwiesenthal on the first train after 1200, currently departing at 1250.
2-10-2Ts are apparently the only power here; a Meyer did run here occasionally in DR days.
The line was privatized in 1998, and coaches now feature a blue diamond logo on their sides. But the exhausts still echo loudly off the hills, and the snow still falls deeply. |
Freital-Hainsberg - Kurort Kipsdorf: Running from the suburbs of Dresden ("DRAY-zin") to a resort near the Czech border, this line offers terrific scenery in the "Rabenaur Grund" (Rabenau Gorge), and was the main transport link to a heavily industrialized corridor around Schmiedeberg. Constructed in the early 1880s, the line runs 26km.
Photographically, the line seems like two railroads connected at the midpoint station, Dippoldiswalde. The first 15km runs through beautiful scenery - the Gorge is followed by trackage along Malter lake. At Dippoldiswalde, however, the line's true purpose becomes evident, as industry pops up along the main road from Dresden to Prague, in the Czech Republic. Streetside running and tracks hidden behind factories are briefly interrupted by an awesome curved stone viaduct nestled between the houses of Schmiedeberg. The final approach to the massive Kipsdorf station is on a 3%+ grade, and passes a closed engine shed and signal box (interlocking tower).
Sections of this line were closed for part of 1998 as the Schmiedeberg viaduct, the station awning at Dippoldiswalde, and roadbed were rebuilt in an effort to make the line attractive to a buyer. Until one can be found, the line continues to be operated by DB under contract.
You will find the same class of 2-10-2Ts here, as well as one Meyer used occasionally on special trains. |
Radebeul Ost - Radeburg:This line also starts in the suburbs of Dresden, and runs 16km to the sleepy village of Radeburg. Lacking the scenery of the other lines, it has been comparatively neglected by photographers.
The line plays host to a preservation club (Traditionsbahn Radebeul Ost - Radeburg), which maintains a Meyer sporting the original KSStB color scheme and road number (132). The group has also restored Saxon VIk 0-10-0T 99.716 in standard Deutsche Reichsbahn black and red; this class was used in freight service on the line until the 1960s to supplement the (yes, here it comes) complement of 2-10-2Ts. There is also a huge collection of older narrow gauge equipment on display at Radebeul, including one of the oldest Meyers still in existence.
During summer, there are weekend excursion trains with the historic steamers and other well-maintained rolling stock dating back to the 1920's. If the weather is fine, you can sit in an open summer car for the best view of the train and engine - but it's also the best way to get some "steam color" - so put on old shirt and jeans.
This line was allowed to deteriorate by the Saxon government, possibly as a prelude to its abandonment; much of the line was under speed restrictions of 10km/hr. In 1998, however, a massive trackwork program returned the line to top condition. Still, no buyer has been found, and even though the line is a pleasant way to get from Dresden to the Moritzburg Castle, it may be the most endangered of the lines. |
Oschatz - Mugeln - Kemmlitz: This 17km line was a time-warp when the East was opened in 1990. Unique among the Saxon lines for having no passenger service, it was powered by Meyers pulling standard gauge freight cars on "rollwagen" equipped with rope-worked brakes over heavy grades. Doubleheaded trains, or trains with pushers, could be found. A Kaolin factory at Kemmlitz, whose product is transloaded to barges on the Elbe at Riesa, provides most of the line's traffic.
In 1993 this line was dieselized and the rope-worked rollwagen replaced with more modern idlers, putting an end to a picturesque operation. The good news is that on the last Sunday of most months, passenger excursions are operated with Meyers, and occasionally a chartered demonstration freight is scheduled. |
| Johstadt - Wolkenstein: This line, running in a valley east of Annaberg-Buchholz, was abandoned in 1986 and the tracks removed. Since 1990 a group of volunteers has rebuilt 6.5km of track north from Johstadt; how much of the remaining 12km to the standard gauge connection at Wolkenstein can be rebuilt remains an open question. But this line, though not in regular service, should be on your list - three Meyers, authentic cars, occasional demonstration freights, and fine scenery are combined here. Perhaps the most attractive time to visit is between Christmas Day and New Years, when trains run daily through what is usually a snowbound landscape. At only 12km from Cranzahl, it's relatively easy to photograph both lines in a single day. |
Travel Tips |
When To Go: Most photographers tend to visit in January and early February, when the chance for snow is greatest. Accumulations of several feet at the higher elevations are not unheard of. October is also a good time to visit.
As noted previously, a visit between Christmas and New Years could be very productive - excursions will be running at Oschatz (26th) and Johstadt (27th-1st) in addition to the regular services on the other lines. |
The Language: Knowing some German helps. German is a very common second language for Europeans, so outside the places frequented by Americans, English is not common. |
The Weather: Moderate. Temperatures tend to hover in the low 30s during the day in winter, dipping below freezing at night. |
Maps: The essential map is Kompass map company's "Wanderkarte." Hiking is a popular pasttime in Germany, and this map series covers the most scenic parts of the country. Luckily, most of the narrow gauge lines fall within these maps' coverage.
No. 1025 covers Cranzahl - Oberwiesenthal; 1026 Jostadt - Steinbach - Wolkenstein; 1027, 1034 and 1035 are needed to cover Freital - Kipsdorf and the southern part of the Radebeul - Radeburg line (to the Barnsdorf area). Kompass does not appear to make a map covering the Zittau network (1029 may cover it), but Kummerly + Frey produce a Wanderkarte (No. 25-10) that does. I did not find a Kompass map of the Oschatz line, either.
The Kompass maps are available at OmniMap for US$11.95 each plus shipping - see "Online Resources" below for details. (They cost anywhere from US$3 to US$6 in convenience stores in Germany.) The Kummerly+Frey map does not appear to be available online. (If you happen to be in London, Stanford's (on Long Acre near St. Martin's Lane in the West End) stocks an excellent supply of German maps, including Kompass titles.) |
Getting There: You're most likely to fly into Frankfurt or Berlin. You can also fly into Dresden (4-5 hours by Autobahn, 5 ours by ICE train from Frankfurt, half that from Berlin) by changing planes at a European hub. Since each of these lines are within two hours of Dresden, picking up your car there might make sense; cars are available at both major rail stations. If you fly into Berlin, try to get a flight to Schonefeld airport - it has better rail connections than the larger Tegel and Tempelhof airports (which were in West Berlin). |
Lodging: As mentioned in other pages, guest houses are an inexpensive and common lodging choice; look for the white "zimmer frei" (room available) sign. Breakfast is provided with the room. Other than in no other large cities are near the narrow gauge lines.
The adventurous may want to see if lodging is still available in the Freital-Hainsberg Station - I suspect some real Communist-era atmosphere can still be found if it is, with sparse conditions in rooms overlooking the steam locomotive shed area.
See comments submitted on lodging below. |
Food: Since these lines run through scenic areas, a tourist economy has developed and restaurants are plentiful. Roadside stands serving Wurst for lunch are common, or take a break in one of the many lodges near a station. |
Money & Prices: Forget the traveller's checks or large wads of cash. BY FAR the safest, simplest and least expensive way to get cash overseas is your plain old ATM card. You'll find ATMs in towns as small as Dippoldiswalde, in addition to all the larger areas. |
Timetables: German timetables use the 24-hour system. 12.00 is noon, 13.00 1 PM, 14.00 2 PM, etc. Midnight is 0.00. Dates written in digits have the format DD.MM.Year. On timetables, it is usual to write months in Roman numbers. |
Online Resources |
Use the following links to plan your trip to the Saxon Narrow Gauge lines: |
http://babelfish.altavista.digital.com/cgi-bin/translate? - If you don't read German, you're going to need this excellent translation site. Simply copy text off one of the pages listed below, or put the URL into the box. Set the command to "German to English" and you're all set. |
http://www.schmalspurbahn.de - the Narrow Gauge Dictionary
- this should be your first stop. Ralf Muller has information on every narrow gauge line built in Germany here, including lines now gone. Links to pages where more can be learned are included. In German. |
http://www.bimmelbahn.de/mosaik.htm - another narrow gauge site. In German. |
http://mercurio.iet.unipi.it/home.html#TIME - the European Railway Server
- you'll find lots about German steam scattered throughout this site, including in the links section. |
http://www.radebeul.de/traditionsbahn/index.html - the official page for the volunteer support group of the Radebeul - Radeburg line. In German. |
http://home.t-online.de/home/bardoux.bx/schmalspurbahn.htm - Frank Bardoux's excellent site on the Freital - Kipsdorf line. In German. |
http://www.bvo.de/my_html/bvo_bahn.htm - the official site for the Cranzahl - Oberwiesenthal line. Another site on this line can be found at http://www.bimmelbahn.de/fbb/fbb1.htm. |
http://www.bimmelbahn.de/zittau/bahn.htm
- a site covering the Zittau network. |
http://www.wilder-robert.de/index.html - the official site for the Oschatz - Mugeln - Kemmlitz line, including excursions. |
http://www.pressnitztalbahn.de/bahn.htm - home page for the Jostadt - Wolkenstein relaying project, and the Waldeisenbahn Muskau" ("Muskau Forestry Railway") on the Polish border north of Gorlitz. |
http://www.ringhotels.de/englisch/indexE.htm - Ringhotels
- a German hotel chain worth considering for your visit. Locations in Kurort Oberwiesenthal and Dresden. |
http://www.z-plus.de/ORTE/Annaberg/wildmann/wilderma.htm - Hotel Wilder Mann, Annaberg-Buchholz - situated on the picturesque market square, just steps from the famous "Annenkirche" ("St. Anne's Church"). |
http://www.mapquest.com - MapQuest - order maps online. |
http://www.omnimap.com - Omnimap - order maps online. A word on ordering Kompass Wanderkartes: while searching for these maps, it became apparent that OmniMap's web site leaves a bit to be desired. When looking for the Kompass maps, the direct link to the Kompass page from the Germany page did not work. Believe it or not, the only way to order these maps online that I found was as follows: from the "International Maps" page, click on "Italy" in the Country and Regional Listings, then "Itemized Listing of Kompass Hiking maps." |
http://www.xe.net/currency - Universal Currency Convertor - self-explanatory. |
http://bahn.hafas.de/bin/db.s98/detect.exe/bin/db.s98/query.exe/e? - Deutsche Bahn (German State Railways) - Look up schedules for trains all over Europe. This is the English-language page. |
http://www.mastercard.com/cgi-bin/atm - MasterCard ATM Locator - Find a MasterCard or Cirrus ATM. |
(Links are provided as a convenience and do not imply any endorsement of products or services offered on the linked sites.) |
Photo Locations |
Zittau - Oybin, Jonsdorf: once out of Zittau, the line is generally open and photogenic. |
 | After leaving the Zittau Hauptbahnhof, the line circles around the east side of town, then turns due west to approach Zittau-Vorstadt station. In winter, some wonderful sunrise shots can be had. |
 | After leaving Vorstadt station, the line is in open country until the approach to Bertsdorf. |
 | In between the buildings some interesting vignettes can be found. There is also a steel viaduct nestled among the houses at Olbersdorf. |
 | Doubleheaders are now rare, but for a time each day started with a doublheader to Bertsdorf, where the trains split for further duties. This train, however, is simply a running-in turn for a loco fresh from the shop. |
 | On the Oybin line, we watched a very formal guard (conductor) step off the train, wait for the appropriate departure time, look around purposefully, then give the "right-away" to the engineer with his paddle - all without a single passenger getting off or boarding at this closed station. |
 | The Jonsdorf branch is surrounded by trees for much of its length, but breaks out into open fields for a short distance after the Hst halt. |
Cranzahl - Oberwiesenthal: this line is something of a roller-coaster, but much of the line is uphill for chimney-first trains. |
 | Some of the former East's most modern railcars meet the steam-powered trains at Cranzahl. |
 | The station area at Cranzahl is very atmospheric, and many trains are well-patronized. |
 | There is usually one doubleheader, generally around mid-day, to return the protection engine to Oberwiesenthal. |
 | The view near Unterneudorf halt along the ridge are wonderful. |
 | Leaving the Neudorf station, there is a short bit of street running as the trains prepare for the steep climb to the next station. |
 | After passing through the picturesque Hammerunterwiesenthal station area, the train enters a narrow valley and runs along the Czech border. |
 | This valley is thick with photographers during the winter snows. |
 | At the Oberwiesenthal station, the line crosses a large steel viaduct, then passes by the loco shed. |
Freital - Kipsdorf: this line is very scenic, and rather hard to chase, as the roads are in poor repair and not near the tracks between Freital and Dippoldiswalde. |
 | The Rabenau Gorge begins within a few yards of the Cossmansdorf halt, and continues until the line joins Malter Lake. Stations in the Gorge include Rabenau. |
 | A footpath runs along the railroad through the length of the gorge, making photography very easy. |
 | Near the Rabenau and Spechritz stations you will find a restaurant and guesthouse. |
 | Seifersdorf station is unusual in its wood construction and island platform. It served a factory out of the picture to the left, now closed. |
 | The line changes character at Dippoldiswalde, where most trains now meet. |
 | Scenic highlight of the southern end of the line is the viaduct at Schmiedeberg, surrounded by buildings. Click here for the view from an apartment building to the left of this photo. (Now, if I only spoke enough German to talk my way into that room . . .) |
Radebeul - Radeburg: Lacking the scenery of other lines, this line isn't visited to the extent others are. |
 | 0-4-4-0T 99.713 does get used in regular service occasionally. |
 | Near the north end of the line, one can find a few open photo locations. |
 | Meyer 0-4-4-0T is shown at Radebeul Ost in the Saxon Railways paint scheme it wears. |
Oschatz - Kemmlitz: This scenic line sees steam rarely these days, but is worth seeking out. |
 | Meyer 0-4-4-0T 99.1574-5 performs on a demonstration freight in June 1993. |
Non-Rail Tips |
Dresden is slowly rebuilding after the devastation of the closing days of WWII and the Communist era, but outside of a few reconstructed landmarks there is little of beauty about the city. On the other hand, the smaller towns are quite picturesque, and Moritzburg Castle just north of Dresden is worth a visit. |
 | Moritzburg Castle is approximately 1km from the Moritzburg station. |
South of Dresden, along the road to Decin, Czech Republic, you will find the "Sachsiche Schweiz" ("Swiss Saxony") National Park. The landscapes and rock formations through here are unique in Germany.
On your way to Zittau you will probably pass through Bautzen, a town with a sizeable Slavic minority. The older sections of town, neglected during Communist rule, were being spruced up for tourists during my 1995 visit, and I highly recommend walking the streets here for a few hours.
Other places not to miss include Meissen, a hilltop town famous for its porcelain, and the market square and "Annenkirche" in Annaberg-Buchholz. The drive along the Czech border from Hammerunterwiesenthal through Johstadt, Reitzenhain, and Olbernhau to Schmiedeburg is very scenic, and a great way to get from the Cranzahl line to Dippoldiswalde. |
Personal Recommendations |
First, let me explain how I travel, so you can adjust my recommendations as you need to. I don't often travel alone - either my wife comes with me, or I join forces with one or two friends. I'm not willing to suffer to conserve money, so I'm not looking for the cheapest hotel or restaurant. Nor do I seek out American touchstones like McDonalds and Holiday Inn; being in a non-English-speaking environment doesn't intimidate me at all. Finally, I don't exclude a little tourism once a few nice photos are in the bag. |
Cars & Hotels: There's really not much to say about cars. You'll find picking one up almost identical to getting a car in the US.
Random recommendations from places I have stayed:
Dresden: When I stayed there in 1995, mid-priced hotels were almost non-existent. I stayed at the "Hotel Martha Hospiz," on a small side-street in the Neustadt section of town. A double room in 1995 was DM200 per night. (Nieritzstrasse 11, phone +49 351 56760, fax +49 351 53218)
Freital - Kipsdorf: although this line begins in the Dresden suburbs, perhaps the most attractive place to stay is the "Bahn Hotel" in Dippoldiswalde. Not the most luxurious accomodations, but it's located adjacent to the station, and lodgers are awakened each morning at 0537 each morning as a doubleheaded steam passenger train blows for the crossings north of town for an 0539 arrival. (After some switching, one train continues to Kipsdorf, the other returns to Freital.) Not a bad way to start the day. Single rate in 1997 was DM70 with breakfast. (+49 3504-612509)
From Michael Allen: "The Hotel Rabenaur Muhle is in the old mill in Rabenau. It cost me 90 DM for a single room in February, the rooms are excellent and the dining room is superb. My room faced the tracks, so I could watch the double header go up in the morning and I could sit in the dinning room having dinner and watch the evening double header return. In the summer, you can dine outside and watch the trains stop at the Rabenau halt."
Cranzahl - Oberwiesenthal: While there are lots of options available in Oberwiesenthal, I stayed in Annaberg-Buchholz at the "Hotel Wilder Mann." This excellent hotel is on the picturesque market square; a single room in 1997 was DM100. (Markt 13, phone +49 3733 1440, fax +49 3733 144100) |
Food: Breakfast is typically a cold buffet at the hotel, where you can get the standard pastries as well as sliced meats, cereal and yogurt. Hot breakfasts aren't typically German.
Lunch is usually a "wurst" with a roll, mustard, and beer gotten at a roadside stand. (You can go into town and eat at a restaurant, of course.)
Of particular note despite the name is the "Gondelfahrt Jonsdorf" ("auto journey to Jonsdorf") near the Kurort Jonsdorf station, with excellent food in a wonderful dining room, and the deliciously seedy canteen in the Freital-Hainsberg station. Oberwiesenthal is a ski resort town, so dinner there can be wonderful. |
Trip Strategy: Due to the distances involved, plan to devote a full day to each line you choose to visit. One possible exception might be Radebeul - Radeburg, which could be covered in an afternoon, perhaps spending the morning playing tourist or getting over jet lag. It's very tough to combine Freital and Radebeul in a single day - there's no quick way to get from one to the other.
Simultaneous departures at Bertsdorf are best around mid-day. The line between Zittau and Bertsdorf is best in the morning, and the branches better in the afternoons, so the transition is somewhat natural.
If you're going to spend more than one day on the Freital line, consider riding the doubleheader from Freital-Cossmansdorf halt to Dippoldiswalde, then take the return train back as far as Malter or Spechritz. You'll have about an hour to wait for your first train, and you can spend the day walking back to Cossmansdorf. |
Download an information packet including this page's text and timetables for German Narrow Gauge lines |
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